HPAVC/HPAVC CD-ROM.iso/COMBKEY.ZIP/COMBKEY.TXT

Text File | 1992-10-18 | 10KB | 184 lines

                   *  R e n e g a d e   L e g i o n  *


                            RL Masterkey File


                                   by

                                The Gypsy



                           Technical Report #6


                                 May 1991

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   This file will instruct you on how to build a master key for the type of
locks that are found in many school systems.  These locks are locks that are
generally rented to the students for the school year.  It is a combination
lock on the front, and each has a different combination that is given to the
student with the lock.  On the back of these locks is a small keyhole.  This
keyhole can be easily mastered.  Also on the back of these locks is a number
that has been imprinted on by Masterlock, Inc. at the factory.  The types I
have encountered and mastered are #53 and #69, both of which are popular in my
school area.
   The first step involved is to get one of these locks.  The best way to get
one is to wait until you see one left unlocked.  Then just take it and leave.
This is the best way because they just think, "Damn... I left my lock unlocked
and someone stole it"...  If you go around breaking them off, then the school
is wondering what is going on, even before you begin to master!
   Once you have one, you must next remove the back cover.  This can be done in
one of the following ways:

1. Place a screwdriver (flathead) into the place where the keyhole on the back
is.  Not in the actual hole where the key is inserted, but on the side,
between the keyhole piece and the back cover.  Then simply jam upward on the
screwdriver or hit it firmly with a hammer (sledge if available!)

2. Use a wheel-grinder to grind off the edge on the back of the lock all the
way around.  Then, simply pull off the back cover with a pair of pliers.
Note: the metal housing of the lock is very firm, and when using the grinder
on it, it will become red-hot and begin to glow before it is filed off.

3. Bang the lock around on the ground and stomp on it till it breaks open!

I used the 2nd method.

   After the back cover is removed, you then find a thicker second plate.  If
you used method #2 then you can simply use the grinder to grind off the small
piece of metal in the middle of that plate, which holds it on.  (On some
versions of the lock, there may be other pieces of metal from the main housing
holding on that plate, just grind them all off)...  Once ground off, you must
then only use a screwdriver and pry the second plate off.  If you didn't use
the grinder then this is still possible, but will be a lot harder to remove.
If, when you finally get it open, pieces of the lock fly all over, don't
worry...  Unless you were planning to put the lock back together, (yeah,
right!) you do not need those parts anymore.


   The part you DO need (a lot!) is a small silver-colored piece that contains
the brass key-hole section inside.  Just get this part...  It's really all you
need.  You should also note the version number of the lock which is on the
back plate (which you've already taken off)... you will need this number so
you know what type of lock the master key goes to.

   Now... the trickiest and actually the hardest part of this project is
getting the little fucking brass piece out of its silver lining.  The silver
part is hard to break apart, and hitting it or prying it can cause it to be
dropped.  The brass piece contains pins that will fall out very easily.  The
best way I have found to remove the brass portion without the risk of dropping
it or losing the pins is to melt off the silver-like portion. The complete
piece looks something like this:
              ___
             / K \     K represents the keyhole
             | K |
             \_K_/
               |  /___ Piece Mentioned
               |  \     Below...

   The side opposite of the portion which sticks out the bottom is the part
which should be melted.  Use a blow-torch to melt the portion away.  It will
melt at a temperature slightly above normal solder with a soldering iron.
Once you have melted the portion away enough so that you could pull out the
brass piece, let it cool.  After it has cooled, pick up both pieces together
(do not remove the brass from the silver yet!).  Turn both pieces over
(keeping the brass piece in the silver!!) so that the "piece mentioned below"
is pointing upwards.  You will then have the brass portion in one hand below
the silver portion in your other hand...  Carefully remove the silver portion,
making sure no pins fall out of the brass piece.  The silver piece can then be
discarded.  Place a piece of clear tape around the brass piece to hold the
four pins inside.

   Now comes the key forming process.  Go to your local K-Mart or Wal-Mart and
steal a couple of key blanks.  (Unless, of course, you are a COMPLETELY honest
person, just reading this file for entertainment...  If you are then you may
pay for the keys if you like.)  The key that works the best is model CO-10
made by CURTIS.  You may or may not later need to file a tiny amount off the
END or SIDES of that key.  Anyways, it is the best key I have come across that
fits.  Now use some form of a file (I suggest using a grinding-wheel again)
and file off about 2-3mm (Yes, millimeters) from the bottom of the key.
Remove the tape from your brass piece (be sure the pins are up, so they do not
fall out!!).  Insert the key into the brass piece key-hole.  Push it in until
it sticks out the other end about 1/2 to 1 mm (or just... "not very far").
Starting at the far end of the key (the fourth pin) look and see how much of
the pin is sticking out of the brass piece.  Remember approx. that distance
and remove the key.  Take your file and file down on the key a dip in the
place where that pin (4) would line up on the key.  Do NOT file down too far.
Every-so-often re-insert the key to see how far the pin is getting closer to
even with the brass piece.  When the pin sticks out none and is also NOT
inside the brass piece at all (i.e. FLUSH), then move on to the next pin doing
the same thing.  If you file down too far then the key is worthless and must
be re-done.  After all four pins have been completed, they should be perfectly
even with the brass piece when the key is in place.  Be sure to re-tape the
pins inside the brass piece.

   Finally your key is complete, try it out on another lock (with the same
version number on the back-plate)...  You may need to move the key around a
little inside of the key-hole to make it work.  If it does work then turn the
key back and forth inside the key-hole about 10-20 times to 'break-in' the key
to work better.  If it doesn't work then try the key in your brass portion
again.  If they are incorrect then try again.  Don't worry, with a little
practice, you'll be able to file out a key in under 5 minutes with no problem!

   Well, that's it!  My school also had "normal" master locks that they used
for other things (Stadium fence, power boxes, etc.) that I also mastered.
It's done in just about the same way, so you can experiment.

   Just a warning... be sure NO ONE sees you using or just having the keys.
Also, be sure not to sell them to anyone unless you're sure they're not gonna
give them to everybody else.  I say this because I was suspended from school
for 14 days because the kid that I worked on the keys with, sold one to
another kid.  So once people found out he was selling them, others wanted one.
   He then had to tell people "no" (so that not everyone in the fuckin' school
would have one!).  One of these persons decided to be an asshole and narced on
us.  That, of course, is what got me suspended.  The main reason that they
came down hard on us is because selling the keys increased the crime many
times over.  If we had just kept the things to ourselves (what _I_ wanted to
do) then they probably would have just said 'ok... we'll let you off this time
if you agree not to make any more'...  Yeah, right...

   There also is a way to determine the combination of a lock after taking it
off and using the master key.  This will be explained in the next file.
That's it for now...  If you need help, or are successful, or just want to
chat about anything - contact me at the Internet Email address below.

                                 - The Gypsy   -=[[e-mail]]=-


EOF



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